Battling Haute Couture: Paris Couture Week S/S2015

Going to the shows in Paris for Haute Couture is a bit like going to war.  Only, unlike a soldier, you don't pack in a camouflage duffle but the largest 2 suitcases you have.  And you don't pack combat boots and uniforms, you pack stilettos and designer dresses.  Guns are traded in for handbags, and bullets are your jewels.  This isn't war.  This is fashion.

First battle: Versace Haute Couture.  Versace always starts off the war on Sunday night.  An exciting and electrifying kick off, Donatella Versace never disappoints with her designs, and this year was the best runway I've seen so far from her.  The sleek suits and cut out dresses were simple and sexy.  Sapphire blue, black, red and white never looked so good together.  The attention to the woman's shape is never denied, and I found my first ever Versace HC look this season.  At this point, not sure if I'm winning or losing the battle.

Dior is next.  I have officially become a Dior Haute Couture girl.  My admiration for Raf Simons is loyal from Haute Couture to Ready to Wear to accessories.  His modern architectural approach to clothes both inspires me and captures me.  And the shapes from this season are right up my alley, blending the line between 1960's Mod and futuristic Modern. When there are so many open targets, it's hard to decide which one to focus on!

Alexis Mabille.  He is the darling of the Paris fashion scene: always airy and impish.  He really remembers the fantasy of couture, and this collection was no different.  Sad to miss his 10th Anniversary dinner after, this war was starting to wear at me a bit.  (and I even had a seat across from Hamish Bowles!) Paris Haute Couture is not meant for the weak at heart…

Dita Von Teese in Alexis with the man of the hour Alexis Mabille

Stephane Rolland was a surprise attack.  I really liked the simplicity of this show.  Confirming that black and white is the new uniform and sheer is the best camouflage, Rolland was fresh and bold.  All of the looks had a calm tranquility over us as the transparent sexuality mesmerized.

Final battle of the week was Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture.  I love saving the best for last!  JPG never fails to come out with bullets, hand grenades and victory fireworks.  I thought this was one of the best JPG shows I've seen in a few seasons.  And his inclusion of his retired soldiers that walked the cat walk was a testimony to his history and place as one of the best of Haute Couture.

At the end of the war, we all celebrate with the SIDaction Gala, an organization dedicated to the ongoing fight against AIDS.  Designers, models, actors, and fashion lovers all come together to continue raising funds for the scientific research and education that must still happen in this war that is still yet to be won.  We celebrate the small battles and strategize the next.  

The best way to end the Haute Couture week.

Wearing Alexis Mabille Haute Couture with fellow fashionista Amber Sakai in her own design and Jean Paul Gaultier

My dates and fashion marines, Brian Atwood and Joey Maalouf

Met Gala 2013: Punk Goes Society

The Metropolitan Museum of Art is an icon.  It is one of the most prominent museums in the world.  The Costume Institute of the Met has become in and of itself an icon.  Mostly due to the media-frenzied Met Gala that happens every May.  The Met Gala runs under the leadership of Anna Wintour, so it is no surprise that it has garnered such attention.  But the focus of the evening is on (or should be on) The Costume Institute which houses over 35,000 important pieces of fashion from all eras from the 15th Century to current day, thanks in large part from the support of the Friends of the Costume Institute. My fourth year attending, I was honored to go with French couturier, Alexis Mabille. 

Total Met look: Alexis Mabille couture dress, Amber Erin Jewelry vintage earrings, Perrin Paris stingray clutch,
Brian Atwood rare Crystal Pumps. Makeup and Hair by Kiss and Makeup by Meredith

Punk kids graced the stairs on the way up for cocktails

The "Punk: Chaos to Couture" exhibition, curated by the talented Andrew Bolton, inspires much conversation and debate.  I spoke with Andrew at the Gala and expressed my surprise at how tame the show was - considering the topic.  He mentioned that others had said the same thing.  The show begins with the Godmother of Punk Vivienne Westwood Tshirts, but then moves through the decades with various designers and their own take or inspiration from punk. I agree with others who think the show would have more impact had it been smaller, more intense.

First piece of exhibition, stunning

  

We walked through the exhibit as Alexis gave me his designer perspective.  I drank it in from a fashion lover's perspective.  An art lover's perspective.  As always, the people watching was fun, but it was most certainly not my favorite year.  It felt as if the celebs (and some donors) were trying too hard.  And the idea of Punk at a fundraiser seemed a little odd:  punk hates everything establishment, money, old people...

Alexis looking on

The Friends of the Met usually are bundled together, with various seating assignments.  All of the Friends prove to be extremely interesting, smart, Met enthusiasts.  I might say a direct contrast to the celebrity tables that surround.   Different this year, after the basically non-existent supper, we headed to the Egyptian room for performances by Blondie and Kanye West.  Oh! And dessert of cookies and cupcakes.

Punk cookies

Hamish Bowles and Alexis Mabille

The back of Hamish's trousers

Blondie on stage

Alexis and I made our way into the Boom Boom Room at the Standard Hotel in the Meat Packing District after the gala for the Givenchy sponsored after party.  A packed house as always, the after party was a zoo and fun. After riding in the elevator with a Alexis-gushing Katy Perry, we entered the madness.   Loved running into my fashion favorites, Brian Atwood, Mary Katrantzou and Monique Luhllier.  

Boom Boom

Brian, me and my BA glass slippers

Unfortunately, it feels as if this fundraiser has become more about Vogue Magazine than the Met Museum.  I'm hoping things will swing the other way eventually.  And I believe in the museum and what the Costume Institute does, and I urge everyone to see the exhibit - and maybe a few other things in the museum too.  As I said to a friend, the celeb of today is not necessarily the donor of tomorrow. I will proudly remain a believer in the cause and and donor to THE METROPOLITAN OF ART COSTUME INSTITUTE.