|After a day of Couture and an evening with the family: perfect harmony|
Wednesday, July 24, 2013
Haute Couture F/W 2013
Now feeling like a sophomore of Paris Haute Couture week, I went to Paris knowing the lay of the land and, more importantly, which couturiers I wanted to see the most and which I thought I could skip this time. Less is more.
beetles, bees etc. The result is a quiet, dark, subtle collection with surprising bursts of colors. Knowing the craftsmanship of Valentino, what may seem simple on the runway is sure to be intricate and beyond detailed in person. Tweeds, embroideries with hidden images of objects, mink details, lace - all of it used in a very quiet way. This duo is a duo of artists who created le rêve de la couture.
Hating to miss Versace (but instead enjoying a night out in London with friends), I kicked off my fourth visit to couture with Christian Dior Haute Couture. What a way to start. Raf Simmons has cleaned up this line in such a modern yet graceful way. A cube-shaped tent secured the venue for the stunning video installation as decor of the photography artists Patrick Demarchelier, Willy Vandepeere, Paolo Roversi and Terry Richardson. Blending the current fashion of art with the current fashion of couture, Dior showed a global view of fashion culture. Europe, the Americas, Asia and Africa were all apparent in the designs, and Raf seemed to be bringing back couture to the wardrobe.
Next I hopped over to Alexis Mabille Haute Couture: The Boldini Collection. A favorite of mine since my virginal visit of Couture Week, Alexis continues to embody the dazzling world of couture, using embellishment, lace, hand-painted fabrics and hair spectacle. This was my favorite hair creative from Alexis thus far. Getting a close up of a model afterward showed the curious detail that is Alexis. His clothes are always about the womanly wonder and fantasyland of couture.
Giambattista Valli Haute Couture was next. The runway was set amongst striking alabaster Classical statues in all white. Always romantic and feminine, Valli will never disappoint clients with florals, sheers, bustles and drama. I preferred this collection to others in the past. Bundled in four categories of famous china makers, Capodimonte, Wedgewood, Sevres, and Meissen, the collection did emulate the delicate work of handmade china. I particularly loved the make up shown on the runway: a very simple, natural glow on each face with pulled back straight hair. The yellow gown was the hit of the night!
The Chanel Haute Couture of Karl Lagerfeld can only be described as passionate. Lagerfeld is cleverly able to show the iconic Chanel tweeds in the most refreshing ways with each collection. And the venue is always a place of mystery and excitement. Creating an apocalyptic setting of old wood stalls, a dilapidated stage and rubble inside the Grand Palais, it was an apparent bridge between the old world and the post modern world. With low slung belts on almost every piece, even the clothes seemed to transport from old to new, classic to sic-fi. Classic silhouettes in futuristic fabrics and details stomped from the stage of the shiny new city in the background. All to opera. With fan in hand, I was mesmerized and awed in a way that only Lagerfeld can do. All the while wishing it would never end...